Good Food hat15.5/20How we score
Contemporary$$$$
Come for the wine,sure – owners James Audas and Tom Sheer made a name for themselves dealing in fancy lo-fi vino – but Ollie Wong-Hee’s cooking will likewise inspire future visits.
Wong-Hee is an expert at presenting produce in surprising ways,such as the prawn toast featuring Queensland green kings squished between two slices of crisp-fried pain a l’ancienne. Or steamed Ballina pipis served with a Mexican tarragon and tomato vinaigrette and local Baker&Daughters baguette,an exercise in precise restraint.
Fresh from the hibachi,Stradbroke Island cuttlefish with Okinawa spinach and a fennel-seed vinaigrette is a highlight. Subtle,distinctive and delicious.
Everything here sings from the same song sheet,including some killer natural wines recommended by informed waitstaff. All this in a smart European-style dining room,a handsome stage for such deft food and drink.
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Stunning all-rounder by the seaside.
Nostalgia-inspired takeaway perfecting the charcoal chook.
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