A restaurant experience is the sum of its parts. And Bentley’s parts are quite something:from every angle of the overhead metallic mobile through to spot-lit tables,visually immaculate snacks and perfect petits fours (oh,that four-times chocolate-dipped honeycomb bar). Fine flavours,textures,ingredients,service and eclectic wine pours (thanks,Nick Hildebrandt) put a bow on it.

Chefs Brent Savage and Aiden Stevens are kings of creative combinations,from the black-ink,golden-caviar sheen of a smoky eel cream spooned onto spongey black brioche,to an ethereal tofu-filled calamari roll overlaid with translucent cucumber discs. A gleaming white Murray cod steak sits spectacularly in a dark king oyster mushroom broth,ice-plant leaves the only ornament.

Then there’s the house rye (with coffee husks),the French steak knives,those sommelier-led wine matches – when you’re doing the fine-dining thing,this is where to do it right.

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Sydney CBD

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