14.5/20How we score
Japanese$$$$
To poach a sporting metaphor,great ramen is a game of inches. Savour the victories chef Jacob Riwaka claims in pursuit of a perfect bowl,from the bouncy chew of the noodles to a tare made with roasted wing bones – part of a broth that’s like a distillation of all the best-tasting chooks you’ve ever encountered.
Don’t skip the entrees,especially what might be the most striking prawn toast in town,starring a gigantic king prawn rolled in airy mousse and golden-brownpastry,served head-and-all with a tangy take on sweet-and-sour sauce.
A short,sharp list of natural wines and a regularly changing menu of noodle creations (such as a brothless mazemen ramen that’s all fresh fennel and smoked chilli),make this smart little ramen shop a winner on all counts.
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Old-school hospitality rules at this welcoming stayer.
Storied institution that’s more than a nostalgia trip.
Classy up-tempo classic filled with joie de vivre.
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