If it weren’t for the other diners at Cafe Tanja,you might feel like you’re in a North African home. Knick-knacks extend from embroidered cushions to a framed Zinedine Zidane football jersey (the Algerian connection) and,like any good hosts,Sanah Djebli and Nadim El-Zein are characters in the small dining room,eager to tell you about their house-made bread or recommend what to order.

It’s not just friendly,but helpful,since this is one of the city’s few places to get North African food:briny chicken tajines with more olives than a Turkish picnic;Algerian-style fried eggs spiced with cumin;and brittle brik pastry concealing potato,egg and cheese. No booze here,though,with meals book ended by cake and sweet black tea instead of cocktails.

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Eastern Suburbs

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Voulez-vous coucher avec moi,ce soir?

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Oh,we do like to drink chardonnay by the seaside.

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