Chiswick’s glasshouse-style dining room is objectively beautiful:soumak rugs,cascading ferns and views to an immaculate lawn and vegetable garden are just part of the reason it’s a fail-safe for Mother’s Day lunches.

Matt Moran’s team still roasts a whole chook with the best of them,but the newer menu items are worth your long-lunch money too,such as witlof cradling a remoulade-ish mix of apple and spanner crab;honey-drenched baked halloumi textured with fennel seeds and batons of nashi;and a meaty assiette of dry-aged duck enhanced with tart blood-plum sauce (a little brik-pastry parcel of confit duck under wilted radicchio is a nice surprise on the same plate).

The compact,diverse wine list contains plenty of gems,and if you want to drink Sauternes in the sun with strawberry pudding,a seat by the French windows is the place.

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Eastern Suburbs

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