Raw and refined. Or so goes the tagline on the website. On some nights,“roar” is more like it,as the speakers thump hip-hop tracks down the long,dimly lit room. Or maybe it’s a reference to the contrast between floor and kitchen,an odd mismatch of unspecial service with really nicely executed food.

Your waiter might forget to bring back the bottle of wine from the little banger of a list,but when they eventually return with,say,your figs laden with melty gorgonzola or one of the best salt-and-pepper squids in town,it more than makes up for any lapse of attention.

Golden ricotta gnocchi and beautifully salty bucatini all’amatriciana speak well of the general handling of carbs,the bang-on juicy pork cotoletta is perfect to share and tiramisu with a nice balance of cake and goo adds gloss to what is a great night out.

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Canberra and ACT

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