There are no views of hopping marsupials or rolling vineyards at this mood-lit 30-seater,yet owner-chef Frank Fawkner’s degustation-only restaurant taps into the essence of its hinterland surrounds and celebrates a bush rusticity city dwellers can’t resist.

A starter of pumpkin miso cream tart with pickled muntries,served on a banksia cone? Don’t mind if we do. For all of the rustic appeal,which extends to the rough-hewn wood tables and medieval-like cutlery and stoneware,the flavours are also well considered.

Slivers of charcoal-kissed bonito evoke gum trees and campfire,with garum,eucalyptus oil and smears of satiny macadamia-miso puree adding depth and power;a dessert of dark chocolate cream arrives with a covering of bone-white shiraz verjuice “snow” that dissolves on your tongue. Playful,precise and pure Hunter Valley.

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Hunter Valley

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