An American couple at the next table visit Ezra whenever they’re in Sydney,they say,and every time they’re greeted like family.
It’s a place where warmth and generosity prevail:wines,even by the glass,are proffered for tasting;and portions are hearty,with pickles and dips forming the basis of a vibrant,share-friendly menu that draws from,then expands on,Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine.
Begin with a couple of “Gilda Radners”,which successfully use house-cured lox instead of anchovies,then follow with beautifully textured ikra,the whipped cod roe and eggplant dip served with fluffy pita or a Jerusalem bagel to tear and swipe through.
Potato kugel is pure comfort,barramundi with smoked labne and pistachio tahini is rich and delicate,and you don’t need to have heard of a Golden Gaytime to love the baklava ice-cream sandwich,which twists the classic in new,wild directions. One for locals and out-of-towners alike.