The charred edges of this restaurant’s business card hint at a fiery edge and sure enough,diners are greeted with the smell of a campfire in the bush,with sparks rising from the coals in the hectic,wood-powered kitchen.

Just-warm oysters,plump with salty juices,rest on a tangle of seaweed,and fire-licked kangaroo skewers trail ribbons of smoke to the bare wooden tables as the five-course menu gets underway.

Lennox Hastie’s Firedoor isn’t technically a steakhouse,with the only steaks served as nightly specials for an additional cost. Instead,this is fine dining by fire,with a mesmerising flow of char,smoke and sizzle amping up luxury produce such as Chris Bolton’s coral trout – the skin crisp like bacon – and pale pink Bundarra pork,fringed with salty crackling.

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Eastern Suburbs

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