Despite the name and address,this isn’t fish and chips wrapped in yesterday’s news by the beach. The brutalist concrete diner is a relaxed place to lose yourself in good company with a bottle of orange wine and a menu of fresh seafood.

Calamari,to start,is nicely whacked with fermented chilli and parsley,while more substantial highlights include tender barramundi with perfectly crisp skin,and a meaty fillet of snapper with your choice of punchy salsa verde,house-made tartare,or divinely sweet,slow-cooked cherry tomatoes.

Sides deserve their own spotlight:roast cauliflower is coated in earthy-bitter tahini and balanced by raisins and bright herbs;dukkah and dill are mixed through a colourful cabbage slaw.