A selection of pakora and chaat at Flyover Fritterie in Redfern.
1/7A selection of pakora and chaat at Flyover Fritterie in Redfern.Alana Dimou
Tofu tikka jaffle with mint and tamarind chutney on the side.
2/7Tofu tikka jaffle with mint and tamarind chutney on the side.Peter Rae
Hand-rolled shiitake momo dumplings.
3/7Hand-rolled shiitake momo dumplings.Peter Rae
Downstairs interior of the Flyover Fritterie and Chai Bar in Redfern.
4/7Downstairs interior of the Flyover Fritterie and Chai Bar in Redfern.Peter Rae
In the kitchen.
5/7In the kitchen.Edwina Pickles
Flyover Fritterie
6/7Flyover FritterieSupplied
Hand-rolled shiitake momo dumplings.
7/7Hand-rolled shiitake momo dumplings.Peter Rae

Critics'Pick

Indian$

Let’s chaat! The snacky chaat of crunchy kale leaves striped with tamarind chutney,black chickpeas and sweet yoghurt is proof that this is no ordinary street food.

Designed in homage to the food stalls that set up under the road flyovers of Indian cities,Flyover Fritterie is a bright corner kitchen with can-do staff and metallic mesh stairs rising to the first floor (like an overpass,if you squint).

Gunjan Aylawadi’s food is meat-free,freshly brewed chai runs hot and cold and there are a handful of cocktails and wines to amplify the spices. Dishes play on a recurring theme of textural contrast,vibrant colours and zingy chutney.

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Crisp,golden jaffles stuffed with smoky eggplant baingan bharta are fast-food fun,and fat,crunchy chickpea-flour fritters are nonnegotiable. When they come with a bowl of thick,satisfying coconut lime masoor lentil dhal,it’s a meal in itself.

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