Fred’s is a produce-driven restaurant in Paddington.
1/7Fred’s is a produce-driven restaurant in Paddington.Steven Woodburn
Maryland of Sommerlad chicken with borlotti beans and cavolo nero at Fred’s.
2/7Maryland of Sommerlad chicken with borlotti beans and cavolo nero at Fred’s.Jennifer Soo.
Go-to dish:Sommerlad chicken with borlotti beans and cavolo nero (and a side of wood-oven roasted potatoes,top left).
3/7Go-to dish:Sommerlad chicken with borlotti beans and cavolo nero (and a side of wood-oven roasted potatoes,top left).Jennifer Soo
Pappardelle with pork ragu bianco,rosemary and pangrattato.
4/7Pappardelle with pork ragu bianco,rosemary and pangrattato.Jennifer Soo
Supernaturally crunchy spuds:Fred’s wood-oven roasted potatoes.
5/7Supernaturally crunchy spuds:Fred’s wood-oven roasted potatoes.Jennifer Soo
Fred’s.
6/7Fred’s.Jennifer Soo
Salad of radicchio,sunchokes,walnuts and blue cheese at Fred’s in Paddington.
7/7Salad of radicchio,sunchokes,walnuts and blue cheese at Fred’s in Paddington.Jennifer Soo

Good Food hatGood Food hat16/20

Contemporary$$$

Disclaimer

There is an ongoing investigation by The Sydney Morning HeraldThe Age and Good Food detailing allegations of sexual harassment,exploitation of female staff and drug use at Merivale venues. Merivale,the owner of this restaurant,has begun an internal investigation into the claims and says it is committed to “an inclusive,diverse and respectful workplace environment for our staff,as well as for our customers”. SafeWork NSW is also investigating the company.

Everything’s on display in Fred’s handsome open kitchen,where the composed team makes this whole farmhouse fine dining thing seem effortless.

Witness a dexterous ballet on the grill section as hefty steaks and duck crowns are ferried around an impressive wood-fired hearth. The days of complimentary bread may be long gone,but don’t bypass the $16 fougasse:warm,chewy and boldly salted,it’s a contender for Sydney’s best.

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A striking salad of blue cheese,apple and seasonal chicory looks like a Chardin still life,the leaves pale,spotted and multi-hued. And it’s also the ideal accompaniment to honey-glazed Tathra Place duck,served with quince and marsala,sticky and sweet.

Desserts match the setting,including baked chocolate tart with pine-nut gelato and cumquat – it’s warm,comforting and,like Fred’s,has just a little edge.

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