You can find this casual-chic diner smack bang in the middle of crowded Darling Square,serving tart cocktails and big plates of generosity. Cuong Nguyen’s dishes beckon diners to dig in,starting with rich chicken-liver mousse on mung- bean bread with soft herbs and pickles.

Follow up with a refreshing charcoal grilled octopus papaya salad (goi bach tuoc) that doesn’t hold back on the zing. Desserts are fine (Vietnamese ice-coffee trifle,say),but we reckon it’s more fun to fill up with a crunchy coconut- and turmeric-laden banh xeo,the crepe cradling meaty prawns,or the DIY rice paper rolls with crushed peanuts and barbecued pork jowl.

The food arrives quickly,as do the good times,although grilled wagyu with a pho demi-glace can be a half-hour wait. Is the $80 steak worth it? You bet.

Continue thisseries

Sydney CBD

Up next

Ho Jiak Haymarket

Junda Khoo soothes the soul with homestyle comfort food.

Ho Jiak Town Hall

Boundary-pushing menu born in an amah’s humble kitchen.

Previous

Haco

Tempura-focused omakase counter spins gold from batter.

See all stories