In a city quick to follow dining trends,it’s rare to find a restaurant like Kindred. As welcoming as a family home,with ’90s vibes and an Italian-ish,vegetable forward menu,it treads its own path.

Ignore any impulses to skip bread and order what we’re happy to call stupidly good sourdough:it’s ideal for sopping up the buttery sauce accompanying carrot triangoli,tri-cornered pasta parcels encasing carrot puree and goat’s cheese. So close to perfect it will never leave the menu. Or opt for the campanelle,its twists and turns playing support for spanner crab in jewel-red tomato butter.

Lamb rump is pink and tender,and the kumquat jam that accompanies a creamy semifreddo is welcome on our toast anytime. Service is knowledgeable,with cheery recommendations from a long wine list. Kindred certainly knows what it is,and boy,there’s nowhere else like it.

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Inner West and Western Sydney

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