Good Food hatGood Food hat17.5/20How we score
Contemporary$$$$
What kind of magic is this? Snack after snack after snack,each playful in its composition,each epically layered with flavour.
Koshihikari rice and stracciatella wrapped in nori topped with uni. An ink-black riff on Peranakan pie tee,featuring a crisp nori shell filled with kingfish tartare,oyster emulsion and caviar. Scampi toast. A wagyu potato cake. A tuna tartlet crowned with crisped chicken skin. Gee whiz.
After the wave breaks,take a beat. Peer out at the lights on the water. Admire the flow of Federico Zanellato’s chefs in the kitchen. And order something from Michela Boncagni’s charming drinks list,an offer that reflects LuMi’s fascination with Italy by way of Japan,with a few detours along the way.
It’s there again in bonito crudo with kiwi and wasabi leaf,in bursting agnolotti prefaced by a plate of soy-glazed marron. All polish,all detail,forever enthralling,LuMi’s voice is as strong as ever. Just listen.
Continue thisseries
Pull up next to a stranger for a bowl of outstanding har mee.
As close you can get to the Cote d’Azur in a Sydney high-rise.
Out-of-the-box thinking meets a sure hand with seafood.
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