Good Food hatGood Food hat16.5/20How we score
Contemporary$$$$
With Neil Perry now running Cantonese fine diner Song Bird and basement bar Bobbie’s nearby,you might think the chef would put his flagship on autopilot for a minute. Not so.
Margaret’s paean to wild-caught seafood is as strong as it’s ever been,from perfect oysters,to the heightened flavour of confit bigeye tuna twirled through refreshing seaweed noodles,to a rare sighting of North Queensland cattle-dog cod,beautifully grilled by kitchen co-lead Richard Purdue and fragrant with curry leaf vinaigrette.
More aged semillon? Yes please. But highlights extend far beyond the sea,such as the gold-standard rotisserie Sommerlad chicken,to at least eight different steaks from the best Australian beef farmers in the business.
Sure,the fit-out might have cost a few million,but Marg’ still feels like a modest family-run bistro,with the kind of we-really-care hospitality (and serious cellar) for any occasion.
Continue thisseries
Scrimp-and-you’ll-miss-it seaside dining by Merivale.
Multi-storeyed funhouse where you can expect the unexpected.
Dinner party with charm,chaos and corn chips.
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