This elegant 22-seater celebrates the pantry of influences that makes up the heritage of owners Mork and Benn Ratanakosol,who have downsized from their popular Kingston restaurant Morks and returned to their childhood suburb of Yarralumla,where their parents ran Sukothai in the ’90s.

The cooking finds its own angle here by drawing on the many Chinese identities in South-East Asia and building on them. So in place of sweet and sour pork,there’s fried pork neck with a coffee,honey and Worcestershire reduction,topped with pico de gallo.

Squid is sliced and turned through pickled mustard leaves and a sauce of turmeric,galangal,lemongrass and coconut,with tortilla chips on top;a fillet of torched cobia is emboldened by Indonesian sambal and grounded with curry-leaf oil. The drinks list is short but sharp and the option to bring your own wine perfectly matches the freewheeling mood. Freedom is sweet.

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Canberra and ACT

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