If you’re down to the last piece of charcoal-seared beef tataki in this narrow izakaya just off Byron’s main drag,bar manager Hamish McShane may well spoon the remaining ponzu and chilli oil dressing into a cocktail shaker. A little vodka,a little vermouth and hey presto! It’s the dirtiest martini in town.

Other surprises include watermelon “sashimi” – the fruit slow roasted then compressed with ponzu into a tender,savoury and sweet bite not completely dissimilar to tuna,and the shootable Cafe de Nippon butter that graces hefty hibachi-kissed scallops,satisfyingly seasoned with soy,miso and seaweed.

With a sharp sake,whisky and biodynamic wine list plus buoyant,friendly service,it’s very hard not to be enchanted by the magic at Moonlight’s counter. This is also one of the few restaurants in the region perfect for solo travellers.

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