Upstairs in the ageing Piccadilly Shopping Centre on Pitt Street,you’ll find red-and-gold walls and (mostly) great service at this yum cha mainstay.

Must-haves include crowd-pleasing char siu buns,lacy taro puffs,richly spiced honeycomb tripe and pretty much anything from the wide range of steamed dumplings:expertly pleated har gow pudgy with fat prawns,bouncy scallop siu mai,and garlic chive jiaozi,just for starters.

Trolleys glide and Tsingtao is popped by a broad church that includes hungover students,Chinese families and food critics chinwagging over chicken feet. Regulars seek out the zhaliang:deep-fried youtiao bread sticks wrapped in silky rice noodle and stuffed with prawns. Brilliant.