The exterior.
1/6The exterior.Ashley St George
White anchovy and cucumber soldiers.
2/6White anchovy and cucumber soldiers.Supplied
Whipped cod roe.
3/6Whipped cod roe.Supplied
Pork terrine with pickles,mustard and bread.
4/6Pork terrine with pickles,mustard and bread.Supplied
Welsh rarebit.
5/6Welsh rarebit.Supplied
Tarama with tomatoes and chilli.
6/6Tarama with tomatoes and chilli.Ashley St George

14.5/20

Contemporary$$

This natural wine bar and shop might seem more at home in an inner city locale rather than one of Canberra’s oldest suburbs,but it draws in drinkers across a spectrum,from conservative tasters to lovers of lo-fi funk.

Reese Inkpen’s smart share plates,meanwhile,are a drawcard unto themselves. Recently returned from a stint in London,the chef sends out panisse (the fried chickpea-flour soldiers) tweaked each week with different toppings,such as mortadella and tapenade,and potatoes fried in rice flour with house mayonnaise are a revelation.

Larger plates include a mightily flavoured pork and ’nduja crepinette with lentils,and a wonderfully crisp salad championing celeriac,apple and walnut. Given you can open any bottle from the retail shelves with a small fee,Paranormal is also home to one of the best wine lists in town.

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Canberra and ACT
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