As old-fashioned surf-club,chip-shop burgers risk being drowned out by so many smash patties,Paul’s feels essential. It’s a white roll,a dense patty,a slice of beetroot,a squeeze of tomato sauce. It’s iceberg lettuce,a fried egg,hot chips spilling out of a paper bag,bare feet on the footpath,endless summers. And it’s still as busy as ever.

• As featured inSydney’s most iconic restaurants