Marked by a single “P” motif,the entrance to Peonee is so inconspicuous that this restaurant,not far from the Defence Force headquarters,could be protecting the nation’s secrets.

The menu is mysterious due to frequent ingredient changes and sourcing from small producers. Inside,a low-lit industrial space with polished concrete floors adds suspense. Owner-chef Alberto Ranalli,though,strives for an inclusive tone,engaging diners at communal tables from an open kitchen.

Poached hapuka is wrapped in silverbeet and nettle and finished with a vermouth-based sauce. A coffee kombucha reduction balances the gamey qualities of seared Gundagai lamb saddle,and the fine-dining finesse extends to extra-virgin olive oil ice-cream,with gin granita,tea-soaked grapes and parsley syrup.

Service is efficient,the playlist moody,and wines lean to low human intervention. With a touch more light and warmth,Peonee might just bloom.