Good Food hat15/20How we score
Contemporary$$$$
Sizzling beef fat poured over oysters. Martinis so cold they almost bring a tear to the eye. Massive beef ribs stored in a mausoleum of dry-ageing cabinets. But also:the sort of salads you really want to eat,and equal grill-time given to whole boned river trout,and tender,scorchy calamari.
This first-level bar and grill from the property-backed Etymon group taps into all the things to love about a steakhouse,without the old-school macho stuff. The long,windowed room is all blond wood and soft tones,and the kitchen glows with charcoal ovens and wood fired hearths.
An entry-level hanger steak is so rich and juicy,there’s no need for the proffered mustard. Desserts also go beyond,with a pretty pineapple savarin caramelised at the table. All hail the steakhouse for our times.
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Where vegetables,seafood and service shine.
Bling is king at Big Sam Young’s “little neighbourhood bistro”.
Retro-chic red-and-white chequered Italian.
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