Good Food hat15.5/20How we score
French$$$$
Porcine could be mistaken for an ordinary French bistro. The space has a simple charm:polished wood floors,smouldering brick fireplace and casual (though attentive) service. But what ordinary bistro serves the bone-crushing 1890s duck dish,canard a la presse,tableside?
Chef Nik Hill’s approach to French cooking unearths and painstakingly innovates upon the culinary archive. Moules marinieres become memorable with plump,briny mussels on thick slices of warm buttered bread. A ballotine is made of ocean trout,the gently roasted fillet encircling a mousseline made of its belly,bathed in a decadent butter sauce of lobster and Espelette pepper.
And,of course,there is pork:the dry-aged,roasted neck of a Duroc pig sticky with house-made beer honey and served with a herbaceous choucroute.
This is fun eating,and the bonus of drink-in wine from downstairs bar and bottleshop P&V only makes it funner.
Continue thisseries
Handsome grillhouse firing top-shelf steaks.
Laid-back luxury in the spruced-up Pavilion.
Fiery,fun and forward-thinking.
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