Good Food hatGood Food hat16/20How we score
Argentinian$$$$
Slowly,surely,the Porteno Group has made a strip of Surry Hills its own. While Wyno x Bodega has sadly shut-up shop,there’s still pasta-focused Bastardo,Humble Bakery and the fire-powered flagship,proudly in the same handsome space it has been since relocating from Redfern in 2016.
Needless to say (and in case the dry-ageing cabinet isn’t enough of a clue),steak is essential. Manning Valley sirloin,say,aged for 42 days,then grilled with the bone in for length of flavour,its richness tempered by chimichurri. Vegetables star too,with the crisp-fried Brussels sprouts still winning out,mint and vincotto freshening things up.
Country terrine,meanwhile,made with morcilla and free-range pork gets along great guns with Humble Bakery baguette. Chorizo is made in-house,the wine list is broad,distinct and packed with interest,and staff tread the floor with much assurance. Still blazing,after all this time.
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