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14.5/20

Cantonese$$

Disclaimer

There is an ongoing investigation by The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age and Good Food detailing allegations of sexual harassment,exploitation of female staff and drug use at Merivale venues. Merivale,the owner of this restaurant,has begun an internal investigation into the claims and says it is committed to “an inclusive,diverse and respectful workplace environment for our staff,as well as for our customers”. SafeWork NSW is also investigating the company.

Ripper roast duck? Tick. Tip-top prawn toast? Yes,indeed. There are certain things you expect from a cracking Canto joint – and Queen Chow comes through with the goods.

Yet,this has always been a restaurant unafraid to follow its own logic. Take the somewhat unexpected oceanic twang of the pork and kingfish dumplings,for instance,deftly balanced by pinpoint-precise black vinegar sauce. Or the nod to Filipino halo-halo come dessert,where jackfruit sorbet and hibiscus granita play nice with diced dragon fruit and grass jelly.

Of course,Merivale’s polished touch can be felt at every step along the way,from the lush trappings of the conservatory-style room to the instep wine list and efficient,attentive service. Little wonder that nearly a decade on it remains a staple for a date night,dim sum with the family and just about everything else in between.