There’s a case to be mounted that sitting at Raes overlooking the sweep of grass running down to Wategos beach is as quintessential a Byron Bay experience as walking to the lighthouse or a beer at The Rails. The room – all climbing vines,rattan ceiling fans and vintage surfing photos – buzzes with sun-kissed staff urging you to have a white negroni to begin. Chef Jason Saxby knows his fishermen by name and this speaks volumes about the produce on the plate,plates that have become more restrained over the years. It is hard to imagine a squid ink tagliolini with crab and champagne veloute receiving a more sprightly execution. Swordfish,meanwhile,is buttery soft,and zinging with freshness from zucchini,salsa verde and desert lime. A millefeuille of caramelised pastry layered with native berry jam provides further proof that Raes is a must-visit Northern Rivers attraction.