Raku counts among its dedicated supporters the odd celebrity chef and influencer,and there’s plenty of clickbait across the cross-cultural menu:wagyu tartare is dressed with sansho pepper and caramelised miso butter,while the Dragon (which takes top billing in the maki roll selection),stars seared wagyu atop a roll with prawn tempura,avocado and kimchi.

Desserts,like a Japanese whisky chocolate fondant that ramps up the richness with miso caramel,track the fusion narrative,but Raku also satisfies traditionalists:bar-side seating offers a front-row view of chefs preparing fresh sashimi plates,say,or charring wagyu and miso-coated broccolini on the robata grill.

Wine offerings – which range from local stars like Mada gewurztraminer through to premium Alsatian riesling – complement the breadth of the menu,while good pacing and discreet,polite floor staff round out one of Canberra’s best dining experiences.

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