Welcome to Sails on Lavender Bay,but not as you know it. Linen tablecloths? Gone. Fusty off-white interiors? Out of here. Sydney Restaurant Group took the keys to the 1970s-built fixture in 2023,and the dining room is now a quiet riot of pastels,floral upholstery and pink scallop shell sconces.

The commanding Harbour Bridge view is still there of course – plus formal service,oysters and an up-to-scratch creme brulee – and most dishes play it safe with the occasional off-piste flourish. XO-boosted spaghettini,for example,with Moreton Bay bug and a Thai basil oil that doesn’t overstay its welcome,or refreshing silver trevally crudo with cucumber,fennel cream and a restrained use of preserved lemon.

Perfectly fine steaks are on hand if you’re keen to splash out on triple-digit Bordeaux,and the martinis come dry and cold. Certainly worth a lunch if you’re entertaining guests from out of town.

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