This is the Amalfi Coast transported to Middle Harbour Yacht Club in a long,sunshine-hued,beach-edged room. Moored yachts clink,waves lap gently beneath the floor,and children dig on the sand surrounded by citrus-striped umbrellas as St Siandra’s endless summer vibes roll on (it’s all still very picturesque in winter,too).

Head chef Sam McCallum delivers Mediterranean and Middle East flavours with panache,starting with charred potato flatbread swooshed through silky whipped cod roe.

A fruity rhubarb and lemon-forward Admirals Cup cocktail is on hand to sip between bites of baked scallops with sun-dried tomato pesto,and plump smoked chicken with spring onion and pine nuts.