Natural-wine boffins who stumble across Stonefruit,a few clicks south of the Queensland border,must feel like the first New England settlers striking gold.

Tenterfield is best known for saddles,Peter Allen and war memorials;less so as a place to drink gamay,Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru and rare bottlings of Jean Francois Ganevat. Kudos,too,for the great takeaway selection of local wine,rustic handsome room,Wilco-heavy soundtrack and a menu name-checking farmers.

Under a shower of pecorino,Paul and Sue’s grass-fed beef tartare tastes like a cow that lived a good life grazing in nearby Eukey;a wedge of sorrel tart is dense and deep green,lifted further by a spritely salad of fennel and soft herbs;swordfish steak sits in a lip-sticking Tropea onion and saffron broth.