Rockley’s pub has comforted and refreshed strangers and locals alike since 1872. Now the historic little village just south of Bathurst is all bustle and buzz,as proud new pub owner,big-city chef Matt Moran,outlines ambitious plans to turn it into a dining destination with luxury accommodation.

In the meantime,settle in,have a yarn in the front bar,or move into the dining room where pub classics share billing with more contemporary dishes.

Young chef Simon Borghesi does a terrific take on deep-fried prawn toast topped with prawn mousse,and lamb shanks are big,meaty,and come with a bucketful of silky mash,red wine sauce,and a slew of broad beans. There’s even sticky toffee pudding,drowning in caramel sauce.