It’s an upstairs-downstairs affair atThe Waratah, a cosy corner site infused with an Australian accent. Stay down,and a rotating roster of cocktails (a mezcal-spiked Japanese Slipper,say) joins a fine burger and the signature rhubarb and watermelon Waratah Spritz. Head up,and it’s bistro classics with Aussie wines,plus drinks of beauty and complexity from co-owner Evan Stroeve,infused with ingredients from regional growers and makers. Either way it’s a win.

• As featured inSydney’s best bars