There are dishes at this revamped boozer that wouldn’t be out of place on some tasting menus around town for double the price. A “millefeuille” featuring layers of finely peeled and rolled beetroot lifted with native thyme oil. Butter-poached marron laid across creamed corn risotto and a commanding sauce made from the crayfish’s head. Clean,sweet toothfish covered in a kombu-enhanced squid-ink glaze.
The kitchen knows his way around wagyu too,whether it’s tri-tip bolstered by chestnut mushroom sabayon,or a fully loaded steak and smoked-tomato sandwich from the upstairs bar menu.
Add reclaimed oak tables,soft-textured walls and woven leather chairs and we’re not sure the joint can still be called a “pub”,but whatever the White Horse has become,we like it a lot.