Branching off a Mort Street laneway,the interior details of Wine Room summon the tones and hues of the Australian landscape in its ceramic,tile and wood finishes.

It’s fitting for a place that foregrounds,wherever it’s possible,Australian ingredients. Reverse-butterflied Queensland sand whiting,say,that flakes softly,served with tomato vinaigrette and branchlets of samphire. Yielding,charred kohlrabi,meanwhile,comes out on butter-coloured corn puree in a sensuous interplay of textures.

There’s detail in the small plates,too – the pomme Williams,a pear-shaped sculpture of deep-fried potato – is served on a hot tablet with toum bringing garlicky punch,while Tasmanian trout rillettes is accompanied by roe,cornichons and croutons – all pop,pickle and crunch.

Shout out to the excellent and knowledgeable staff,who steer things ably and attentively all the way through to a finish,best capped with – what else – one of a range of Australian cheeses.

Continue thisseries

Canberra and ACT

Previous

Terra

Fire-fuelled dining in city centre.

See all stories