Yuzu cup filled with cherrywood-smoked tataki toro at Yoshii’s Omakase.James Brickwood.17/20
Japanese$$$$
Seats for Crown’s premier omakase are released at noon on the first day of each month,but you’ll need the wisdom of Yoda and swiftness of Superman to score one (or a very fast internet connection,at least). Chefs Ryuichi Yoshii and Hyota Sugihara welcome guests to the handsome 10-seater sushi counter as they prepare the evening’s 17-course dinner,and starters might include an elegant sashimi selection that shows off the chefs’ superior skills,and fresh yuzu filled with cherrywood- smoked tuna tataki. Then it’s showtime (also known as nigiri time). Sea eel is daubed with Yoshii-san’s 31-year-old master sauce;otoro bluefin tuna is as luscious as any slice of wagyu;and squid is carved matsukasa-style,transforming it into a snow-white pine cone. It’s an expensive experience,yes,but think of it more as a three-hour-long theatre production. A highly delicious dinner and a show.