La Lola

Let me cut to the chase.

La Lola is the best new restaurant to open up in Perth in recent memory. Get down there. Fast.

Test driving the new Italian trattoria/pizzeria on the fancy pants Hampden Road in Nedlands last night,it occurred to me that there was nothing to complain about.

Absolutely nothing.

They were even seating people at about 9.30pm. Can you imagine? In Perth? Word is the kitchen is open until 10pm but if the people want more food later they’ll be getting it.

Owner Michael De Marte has recreated a classic Roman trattoria,complete with tables so close to one another that you end up meeting new people during your meal and glorious Italian wait staff with smiles on their faces deliver service whilst entertaining with their typically Italian personalities.

We were sitting so close to others that it was easy to hear fellow diners raving about their dishes.

Smack bang in the middle of the golden triangle,La Lola provides great prices in an area where many could be accused of going a little (or a lot) overboard on the charging.

When millionaire and socialite Rhonda Wyllie turned up and stopped to chat with those dining on the footpath outside the venue,it was clear this place is already attracting attention,despite being open a mere three weeks. It certainly is cool.

De Marte refuses to compromise on quality,and together with head chef Tony Garita of Bar One fame,the pair put their Italian backgrounds to good use here.

They don’t take bookings,but a very stylish little back bar is available to lounge in whilst awaiting a table – a great chance to sample the limoncello or simply indulge in a glass of wine.

But let’s get to the main event. The food on offer here take you directly to Rome.

The carpaccio (eye fillet beef,truffle oil,tiny sweet capers and topped with shaved parmesan) is similar to the one currently being served at Bar One. It’s done just as it should be,delicate slithers of the meat,the perfume of the truffle oil and everything working well together. At $18.50 it’s well worth ordering.

The acciughe (white Spanish anchovies,shaved fennel,buffalo mozzarella),$16.50,is recommended by the owner and judging by the quality of the anchovies topping the puttanesca pizza would be a delicious start to a meal.

The pizzas,cooked in a big woodfired oven,are simply sensational. Ours,the aforementioned puttanesca (tomato,fresh mozzarella,white anchovies,olives,baby capers,spring onions and parsley) was bang full of flavour,but not overladen with topping as many places want to do.

Pizzas at La Lola are divided into two categories – rosse (tomato based) and bianche (olive oil based). They range in price from $18 for the margherita to $26.50 for a smoked salmon pizza and are a great size. To die for.

There are only three pasta choices,a superb prawn linquine,with baby capers,green olives,fresh tomato salsa,a lovely hint of chilli and chives ($23.50),an Italian sausage spaghetti and a veal and porcini mushroom papardelle – the papparedelle is made on the premises.

Whether you want to share a few smaller plates or go for the bistecca (a fabulous-looking hunk of porterhouse with Italian coleslaw,lemon and sea salt at $33.50),salmon or chicken you won't be sorry dining here.

The only people sorry this place has opened up are the owners of competing cafes on the strip – which were empty whilst La Lola raged late into the week night.

La Lola
Open Monday – Saturday from 5.40pm – late
25A Hampden Road,Nedlands
9386 5554