Even when it's full house in 221's bright,buzzy dining-room - part of the Royal Oak Hotel - the view through to the kitchen shows the same orderliness that manifests in its well-timed,artistically presented dishes. Kitchen skills go on show in house-baked crusty sourdough,hand-rolled pasta and an elegant Viennese coffee tart for dessert. An attractive sashimi tasting plate,with a trio of fresh tuna,salmon and kingfish,is simple and fresh,while seared Atlantic sea scallops with cauliflower puree and jamon iberico satisfies,but lacked sea-fresh firmness. Main meal portion sizes are as generous as the Hunter Valley hospitality in this cheery pub restaurant. Expert hands make salt-and-pepper tempura for a small pile of garfish,but dry flesh disappointed. Plump king prawns and diamond clams are paired with well-made saffron pappardelle;brace for strong flavours,including capers,pea shoots and lime. And pizzas,bound for diners at the bars,are hijack-worthy.