Undiscouraged by its home on a busy road in suburbia or by its age (23 years and counting),Abhi's continues to exceed expectations. The restaurant's good looks - plush carpet,smart timber tables and a feature wall papered in silver and black paisley - are backed up by eager-to-please staff and a packed menu of enticingly aromatic dishes from all corners of India. Start,perhaps,with palak patta chaat and sundhiya. The two entrees complement each other beautifully;the creaminess of the lentil-battered spinach leaves,fried crisp and smothered in yoghurt,tamarind,chilli and mint sauces,is an ideal counter for the latter - garam masala-flavoured spheres of shredded lamb. Beef ambotik,a version of vindaloo,comes with the promise of chilli-heat but,owing to unexpectedly hot banana capsicum,Hyderabadi-style ennai kathrikai - a nutty eggplant curry - packs more of a punch. Pretty pink rose kulfi is the dessert of choice,topped with crushed pistachios.