Alpha is the first letter of the Greek alphabet:an apt name for one of Sydney’s top-ranking Greek restaurants. This impressive space - ancient Greece meets big,bright,contemporary diner - has truly upped the ante on what it is to eat good Greek around town. The jury’s still out on what Alpha’s alpha-dish is,but the clear winner for dessert is loukoumades:a golden ring of spongy,honey syrup-doused doughnut balls fringing a scoop of candied-walnut ice-cream. Otherwise,‘vintage’ dishes from legendary chef Peter Conistis’ repertoire captivate,such as rabbit and olive pie or scallop and eggplant moussaka. The creamy arctic crab and haloumi tart with a fine filo pastry base has richly flavoured filling and souffle-light texture. To start,nothing surpasses hot,house-baked pita bread and mezes such as tangy,meaty pickled octopus and tirokafteri - a thick,creamy dip of sheep’s feta,chilli and red pepper.

And … An adjoining store sells Greek pantry products,cakes and pastries.

THE LOW-DOWN
VibeKitsch-free,crowd-pulling,contemporary Greek. 
Best bitThe grand setting.
Worst bitNot all floorstaff seem up to speed.