Every now and then,a cafe comes along that is a game-changer for the entire neighbourhood. For Gymea,that was BiancoNero Espresso. The sleek interior,unflappable staff,reasonably priced food and serious coffee set a new standard for the area three years ago. George Gourlas has reconfigured the streetwise space near the station to include a breezy outdoor deck and an underground espresso bar. Take the commuter edge off with a double espresso ($4) that has fine acidity,an earthy flavour and a port-like finish,or wolf down a herb-scented scrambled egg and bacon panini. BiancoNero also has an offshoot at 36 St Pauls Street,Randwick.