Twenty-seven years on,this Sydney institution remains an enchanting,old-world escape,with service as flawless and wonderfully whimsical as ever. But is the spark still there? It depends who you talk to - and what you eat. Owner Armando Percuoco keeps a watchful eye over a dining room that’s seen it all and decor that’s collected something from every decade. The menu straddles old and new but it’s the classics that dazzle,such as deeply purple prosciutto-wrapped figs that surrender to a pool of gorgonzola at a mere fork prod,or wickedly indulgent truffled-egg fettuccine;still two of Sydney’s best dishes. Raw calamari with salmon roe,poppy seeds and sea urchin gelato almost worked,but two grilled lamb cutlets with salsa verde and candy-sweet beetroot was unremarkable,and at a rather cheeky price-point. Sublime torta mascarpone with savoiardi,boozy cherries and airy meringue sets everything right.

And … Upstairs offers a more modern feel and can be booked for private groups.

THE LOW-DOWN
VibeOld-school Italian.
Best bitLuscious truffled-egg fettuccine tossed at the table.
Worst bitDecor and glassware from the old school.