If they took away the beautiful sunset over the city skyline and outlawed the popular sport of people-watching on Sydney's sceniest marina,what would you be left with at China Doll? Well,some seriously good pan-Asian cooking from chef Frank Shek for starters. So much can go wrong with'Modern Asian',and often does,but there's real integrity on show at this perennially rammed restaurant. A special of fresh,deep-fried harbour schoolies comes alive with a tingly sriracha dipping sauce. Then swipe some fluffy,beautifully light corn and zucchini cakes through a fiery chilli sambal.'Hot and numbing'Sichuan-style pork ribs were slightly underpowered,but sublimely fresh steamed Cone Bay barramundi with chilli garlic and mustard greens is full-throttle fabulous. The dessert selection is short,and not everything will float your long-tail boat,but a mango tart with vanilla pashmak and honey yoghurt is all sweetness and light.