Its name may refer to delicate porcelain forms,but there's nothing fragile about China Doll. At this waterside restaurant,flavours are robust,zippy,elegant but never muted. Sliced cucumber,docked in a chilli oil slick with razor-sharp shallots,is a great appetite kick-starter,while a beef rendang is worth slowing down over. Chef Frank Shek obviously knows the playbook of Asian classics,but he's not about overcautiously keeping within safety lines. Fried dumplings - pan-crisp bites of sticky rice stuffed with prawn,pork and coriander - are a wonderfully unusual take on a yum cha staple,the pickled ginger and red rice wine vinegar dressing adding wing-lift and zing. And the seen-it-all-before Eastern dessert syndrome is sweetly reversed by an outstanding banana pudding beautifully grounded with a dark chocolate sorbet and squiggles of creme anglaise and chocolate. The breezy wharf view and smart service are equally hard to resist.