Green Peppercorn has many attention-diverting details,from the constellation of birdcages in one corner and the tuktuk parked near the kitchen to a series of menu hits,such as the fried ice-cream that sells out after heavy-traffic orders. This is a family affair,run by Tona Inthavong (who used to work at brother Tony Inthavong's restaurant,Holy Basil);head chef is sister Ketty and recipes are by their parents. Dad hand-makes the popular Lao sausages - peppery,plump and lemongrassy,completed with the zing of'Mum's special sauce'. Order them. Tom yum is fragrant and vegie-rich;marinated beef jerky is a fun table-sharing snack;and fish cakes are good,if over-sauced. Essential. the ice-cream,encased in flaky filo pastry then deep-fried and served with toasty coconut muesli and caramel sauce. Service can be spotty,but the mostly on-mark menu makes up for it.