'Respect thy produce'is Jeff Turnbull's motto. And he does his ingredients proud,serving assured mod-bistro fare to an appreciative neighbourhood crowd. Friendly,efficient staff negotiate tightly packed tables,bearing'HSB tasting plates'(perhaps a salmon tartare topped with a mini-quenelle of avocado cream,a fat scallop on a cube of melting pork belly,plus a crisp,crab-stuffed zucchini flower),or entrees such as crisp-fried soft-shell crab draped over a salty,lemony slaw of brussels sprout leaves. Mains veer from a pitch-perfect chargrilled beef tenderloin with monolithic,twice-cooked chips and a massive dollop of good bearnaise to rare duck breast with classic bigarade (bitter orange) sauce,cavolo nero and velvety parsnip puree. Dessert is de rigueur. an'orgy of summer berries'(a champagne-spiked'mess') is the people's choice,but an elegant dark chocolate and salted caramel tart with creme fraiche and'smashed raspberries'is a quiet achiever.