Long-time Leichhardt resident Giovanni Spinazzola and his wife Cinzia returned to the Norton Street heartland (on the site of the former Elio) in 2012,and have been drawing a local crowd ever since to this simple dining room. The space is lifted by a marble-clad bar,while the menu focuses on tradition without the cliches often dished up in this part of town. This is a classic Italian trattoria writ large,from the exaggerated welcome by an avuncular waiter to the oversized red checks on the tablecloths and insurmountably generous helpings of homestyle pasta,such as orecchiette with a ragu of slow-cooked rabbit,smoky pancetta and a garlicky kick. A risotto of porcini,pea and taleggio also packs an umami punch,while Giovanni's signature lamb is a favourite order for good reason. A well-cooked snapper fillet suffered somewhat from an untraditional accompaniment of spiced tomato chutney,but a zesty cassata gelato brings things safely back to terra firma.