With a carbon footprint of'just 20 muddy steps'from a sizeable kitchen garden that supplies vegetables,fruit,chickens,olives,honey and lamb,Andrew and Lisa Margan's sustainability stamp is all over a very appealing menu. Andrew is the estate's winemaker and Lisa runs the kitchen alongside the ex-head chef at Sydney's Quarter 21 and Becasse,Michael Robinson. The modern dining room has minimal decor but hums with diners,and wine matched to each dish minimises decision-making. Wagyu carpaccio joins a medley of mushrooms and anchovy beignets for a seriously good salt-crunch lift. Sweetcorn veloute,surrounding islands of confit chicken and caramelised scallop,is a hat-trick. Red emperor atop a tussle of squid ink spaghettini is kept light with the tang of preserved lemon. Many of the main dishes can be ordered in entree size,which helps accommodate crisp,pastry-based tarte tatin made with apples from the orchard and cinnamon ice-cream.