If a posse of Italian nonnas were to sit at Alessandro Pavoni’s table,it’s likely you’d hear them tut-tutting. But before long,the clatter of cutlery against china would prevail. Pavoni is a modern-day food crusader,rattling the cages of his native food tradition and embracing the latest kitchen technology,but not at the expense of all we love about Italian food. His cooking seems effortless. Here a rockpool of al dente risotto with shucked oyster and smoked eel in a watercress green broth;there,beautifully shaped tortelli filled with jammy veal cheek and sheep’s ricotta. Glazed lamb shoulder is intense with flavour,as is blackcurrant sorbet,a foil to rich chocolate torta. Smart service,a refined yet relaxed dining room and that view – white boats,blue water,shimmering sunshine – are a total knockout.

And … Tired of foams? Try the potato foam in the baccala cappuccino. Mamma mia.

THE LOW-DOWN
VibeNautical meets northern Italy. 
Best bitThe shimmering harbour.
Worst bitThe price tag on the boats in the adjoining marina.