With its antique furnishings,heavy exposed beams,charming service and ambient lighting,this Hunter landmark remains an oh-so-sexy place in which to wine and dine. With former Jonah's chef George Francisco now running the kitchen,the focus has switched to regional produce,zero waste targets and a permaculture garden. Meanwhile,his cooking ticks all the right boxes. A succulent spanner crab,lemon,garlic and chilli sauce turns a simple pasta dish into a cult item. Then there's olive-crusted yellowfin tuna alongside pretty borage blooms,fetta cheese and olive dust,a zebra-striped tomato salsa and cucumber sorbet. A dainty deconstruction of moqueca baiana (Brazilian seafood stew) features a well-seasoned plank of roasted blue-eye trevalla,splashes of sun-bright dende oil,confit cherry tomatoes,curls of chargrilled zucchini and a fish cake. Ice-cream sundae is layered with white chocolate,plush,velvety raspberries and marshmallowy baby meringues.